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Last Updated:
03/07/05

 

Productive Places to Fly Fish for Southwest Florida's Beach Snook

By Jim Stenson

Spring is finally here, or summer if you live in South Florida. Now the beaches and passes of Southwest Florida are stacked with Snook of all shapes and sizes. Have you ever noticed the correlation between fish and water temperature? Normally in Florida the warmer the water temperature the better the fishing becomes; conversely the colder the water temperature the worse the fishing. Most species migrate over great distances in order to live and feed in an optimum temperature range. The warmer temperatures of spring trigger the need to spawn in most species including, Bass, Bluegills, Peacock Bass, Tilapia. Saltwater fish follow the same patterns and maybe none more predictably than the Snook. In Southwest Florida the water temperature climbs fast and Snook of all sizes invade the local beaches and passes.

For the fly fisherman the Snook might be the most user-friendly fish that swims. Snook can be caught on the fly any month of the year and in multiple environments. From the brackish creeks and estuaries that line Charlotte Harbor to the tannic rivers that drain millions of gallons of fresh water a day into the Ten-Thousand Islands; Snook are the most sought after fish in South Florida. Snook tend to follow a predictable pattern as the seasons change. In the winter, Snook prefer the warmer water temperatures of the backcountry and can be found tremendous distances from the beaches and passes. In Southwest Florida rivers such as the Myakka, Peace, and the Caloosahatchee hold large populations of winter snook, all of which can readily be caught by fly fisherman. In the spring and early summer snook start the transition between their winter hangouts and their summer homes. By mid April or early May, depending on the weather, Snook start to invade the beaches of Southwest Florida by the thousands with only two desires, food and sex.

Throughout May, June, and July and into late August Snook can be caught on the local beaches; if the weather holds Snook can even remain on the beaches through September. Walt Winton, a close friend of mine, who fishes the beaches of Sanibel daily throughout his summer vacation, caught over three-hundred Snook last summer. If the wind and tides are in your favor it’s not unusual to see twenty to thirty snook in a good morning; if you manage to catch a few so much the better. Walt believes the controlling factor is the wind. It’s simple, he claims, the wind blows, the water gets dirty, and the fly fisherman doesn’t catch a Snook. I don’t think it’s quite that simple, even though wind is a big factor, tides play a more important role. I prefer to fish an incoming tide and the closer to a full moon the better, especially the first full moon in May. This does not mean I would pass up any opportunity to visit and fish the beaches of Sanibel.

All beaches are not created equal. The perfect beach has a gradual gradient that incorporates at least one trough but preferably two. These troughs should run horizontal with the beach. The first trough normally starts a few feet from shore and should hold Snook during most incoming tides, and if you’re lucky enough to have a second trough, it will afford you an opportunity to fish at lower tides. Both Sanibel and Bowman’s beaches have two troughs. This probably explains why Walt rarely notices the differences in productivity between tides. The following is a list of local beaches in Southwest Florida, starting in Sarasota County that have easy access and fairly

dependable fly-fishing. I ‘m leaving April twenty-fourth to fish Sanibel and when I return I can give you a more up-to-date fishing report. If you have any questions you can call me at home (Jim Stenson: (850) 576-8097; jstenson@ nettally.com).

Sarasota:

Sarasota is home to several great beaches and passes with easy access. What makes Sarasota so fishable are three passes that connect both public beaches. More accurately there were three passes but now there are only two. A raving lunatic closed Midnight Pass, maybe the most productive and scenic fishery of any South Florida Pass. Sarasota’s local government refused to allocate the money needed to reopen the pass. At one time Midnight Pass could have been one of the most beautiful and productive places to fish in South Florida. Because of the long walk required to get there, it was protected from the crowds and only the serious fisherman would endure the hike. Now the only remnants of the old pass lies in large pools of green algae and dead seaweed caused by the lack of tidal flow.

Lido Beach, located at the south end of Lido Key can be a very productive place to fish early in the morning during an incoming tide. Snook tend to hold on the point during the incoming tides and then move back inside during the outgoing tide. The great thing about South Lido is the potpourri of species. Large Ladyfish (I mean Large Ladyfish) and Pompano inhabit the same water as the Snook and fishing can be amazing during the spring and the fall. South Lido can also have a great nighttime bite. Sarasota bay has some of the most productive grass-flats in the state and in late spring or early summer the passes are full of shrimp. Snook, Trout, Redfish and Ladyfish all gorge themselves on the shrimp on the outgoing tides, and South Lido gives you easy access to a lot of these grass flats.

Siesta Key has several great spots to fish including the public beach and behind the Out of Doors Academy located directly across from South Lido. Both the public Beach and the water behind the academy drain in and out of Big Pass. Both offer outstanding Snook fishing. The public beach should be fished early to avoid the crowds. I have, however, fished throughout the day, in and out of the tourist, with great success. People seem to have little effect on the fish.

Venice:

Venice is just south of Sarasota, it has really only one productive beach. Caspersen Park is located about three miles south of the municipal fishing pier. The make up of Caspersen’s Beach differs from most South Florida beaches in that it is covered with black coarse sand and littered with large sandstone rocks that protrude far out into the water. Over the years, Caspersen’s Beach has enjoyed a reputation for very large Snook, caught mostly by fishermen chunking jigs and plugs. Recently, I have noticed a few long rods waving in the surf, but still no reports of any fish caught. The water gets deep quickly here, so you might be better off using a full sinking line, rather than a floating or intermediate line. Caspersen’s attracts few tourists therefore you might find the size of beach a little intimidating at first. The fish are concentrated around the rocky areas, so proceed there and hopefully after a few fish you will feel more comfortable with the area. During early mornings throughout the summer, a group of regulars fish the beach religiously. Watching them will usually give you a good indication where the fish have been caught recently.

Englewood:

Even though Englewood Beach is a public beach, the Island of Manasota Key is a residential community and receives surprisingly little tourist traffic. Couple this with great summertime fishing and this might be the sleeper of all beaches. Englewood beach drains into Lemon Bay through Stump Pass, both of which are famous for Snook. Because of the empty beaches, it’s possible to fish the beach anytime of the day. I still prefer the morning, if for no other reason, the more tolerable temperatures. Tom (Pompano) Davis another friend of mine, lived across from the public beach for years and has fished there regularly, averaging several fish a morning throughout the summer months.

Boca Grande:

From Boca Grande south, the beaches get rather spotty. Most beaches in the Boca Grande area have been developed over the past few years and access gets more difficult every year. If the beach is not private, then parking is, not to mention the toll to cross the bay goes up whenever the people who live there determine it’s getting too crowded. Boca Grande has the only toll bridge in the state owned and operated by a private citizen and this gives him the right to raise the toll whenever the opportunity to make more money arises. If you must fish this area, be prepared to bring your wallet and don’t be surprised when lousy service and a hamburger for lunch cost you twelve dollars. On the flip side, the fishing can be spectacular. Boca Grande is host to some of the best Tarpon fishing in the world, the city even refers to itself as the “Tarpon Capital Of the World”. For the most part, fishermen who make the pilgrimage to Boca Grande for Tarpon have little time or desire to fish for Snook.

Gasparilla Pass can be very productive during the right moon phase. Incoming tides near or during a full moon in May and June can be absolutely cosmic. The most difficult part of fishing the Boca Grand area is the tidal flow. Even under the worst of tides, Gasparilla and Boca Grande Passes pump tremendous amounts of water through relatively small openings; making fishing almost impossible during the strong tides of spring. If you have a boat, another option might be Cayo Costa, which lies directly south of Boca Grande Pass and has a large summertime population of Snook. The most difficult part of fishing Cayo Costa is that you have to cross Boca Grande Pass and run over six million Tarpon. It takes a special breed of fishermen to ignore all the Tarpon. If you’re that dedicated to Snook, be my guest. I’ll be the one with the twelve-weight in my hands smiling as you go by.

Sanibel:

Sanibel is my personal favorite. Sanibel has three public beaches and two passes, but only one pass is accessible by foot. Redfish Pass is only accessible by boat and can be very crowded. The beaches of Sanibel are tailor made for fly fishing. The beaches have a gradual slope and tend to have multiple troughs. Several state records have come from these beaches. The IGFA all tackle state record was caught a few miles south in San Carlos Pass. Sanibel’s beaches give the fly fisherman a legitimate shot at a possible record fish. Sanibel public beaches include Turner, Bowman’s and Sanibel public beaches. Sanibel can also be very expensive; the tolls are high and the parking cost as much as two dollars an hour. The lucky, like me for instance, can stay with friends who have yearly passes. But if even if one is not that lucky, Sanibel Beaches are still worth a visit.

South of Sanibel, the snook fishing continues to be great, but the beach fishing tends to taper off. Even though the beach fishing tapers off, Collier County and the Ten Thousand Islands offer excellent fishing, but a boat, canoe, or kayak is preferred.

Flies:

***Chartreuse and White Clouser (Different size and color variations work well)

** Surf Candy

* Deceiver (Red and White)

Tackle:

Travel light, you’re going to be doing a lot of walking and there is no need to carry much tackle. Because, there is little structure and Snook tend to run with the beach, all you will need is a six or seven weight rod loaded with a floating line. Try the fluorocarbon leaders. They seem to work.

Technique:

This is sight fishing at its best. If the water is clear and the fish are in, walk down the beach against the tide and search for fish. If you’re fishing an incoming tide or a high tide the fish should be holding rather close to shore. Snook will normally be stationed with their head pointed into the current. The cast should be made from behind the fish to avoid spooking them. Short casts are the rule, and, rarely if ever, will you need to cast more than forty feet. If you’re fishing in the morning, the sun will be at your back, making it easier to sneak up on the fish.

* Remember these are spawning fish. Even if the season is still open, please release all the fish. To kill a Snook during spawning season is sacrilegious.